TOPIC:

Hi People
I'm hopefully starting this week on my first Brew ever which is going to be an attempt at the previously discussed "Larkfield Cascade IPA".(Barry M - I believe)
<!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="www.beoir.org/community/viewtopic.php?f=...p;hilit=goose+island">viewtopic.php?f=30&t=277&hilit=goose+island
I am a big fan of Goose Island IPA (and IPA's in general)and would like to give it a shot.

Batch Size is 5Gal.

So with the Recipe below and the Knowledge Base Article "Extract Brewing: An Illustrated Guide", I am going to plough ahead.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="www.beoir.org/index.php?option=com_conte...rewing&Itemid=47">www.beoir.org/index.php?option=c ... &Itemid=47

Heres the recipe with My questions!

Ingredients:
3.5 kg Dry Light Extract [color=#FF0000:3sdmxhfp](Q1:Half be added at Start and half Near End of Boil- should I do this ??????)[/color:3sdmxhfp]
0.4 kg British Crystal 55°L
0.5 kg Munich Malt
30.0 g Challenger (8.0%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min [color=#FF0000:3sdmxhfp](Are these my bittering Hops??Which are Flavour and which are Aroma)[/color:3sdmxhfp]
20.0 g Cascade (6%) - added during boil, boiled 20 min
10.0 g Fuggle (4.8%) - added during boil, boiled 20 min
20.0 g Cascade (6%) - added during boil, boiled 15 min
15.0 g Cascade (6%) - added during boil, boiled 10 min
15.0 g Cascade (6%) - added during boil, boiled 5 min
10.0 g Fuggle (4.8%) - added during boil, boiled 5 min
15.0 g Cascade (6%) - added during boil, boiled 1 min
15.0 g Cascade (6%) - added dry to primary fermenter [color=#FF0000:3sdmxhfp](Q2.Was this actually 8g cascade and 10G Tettnanger and WHEN during Primary fermentation)??)[/color:3sdmxhfp]

[color=#FF0000:3sdmxhfp](Q3.How do I know Primary Fermentation is complete??)[/color:3sdmxhfp]
[color=#FF0000:3sdmxhfp](Q4.How do I know Secondary Fermentation is complete??)[/color:3sdmxhfp]

Your Batch Size was specified at : 23.0 L .I plan to use a 33ltr boiler. [color=#FF0000:3sdmxhfp](Q5.What volume should go in the steeping Pot and what volume should go in the Boiler????)[/color:3sdmxhfp]

[color=#FF0000:3sdmxhfp](Q6.What can be done to keep the Bitterness down?(Decrease ammount of bittering hops?? or how else). St Lupulins Extra Pale is Favourite of mine and I read it has an IBU of 42!)[/color:3sdmxhfp]

[color=#FF0000:3sdmxhfp]What about sugar? (Q7.What was used in the above recipe? Dextrose?)[/color:3sdmxhfp]
It says in the "Bottling Beer: An Illustrated Guide " that you can use DME which is Dry Malt Extract. We have already used 3.5kg of the stuff. Do I use more at this bottling stage? I am getting a reccommendation of 205g from the Carbonation Calculator based on (India Pale Ale, 2.2 CO, bottle Priming, 22L, 20DegC, Dried Malt Extract). (Q8.Do I mix the DME like it says for the Dextrose in the article?)

[color=#FF0000:3sdmxhfp]Q9. I also have Centinnial Hops 11.5%, would these be a better at any point, alladjusted recipes welcome?[/color:3sdmxhfp]

Hopefully some people can answer some of my questions. Barry M will have answer others.

Thanks and am very excited about getting started.

Q1: Since you're doing a full boil, no. If you were boiling a smaller amount and topping up with lots of cold water at the end, yes.

Q?: Yes. Your 20 to 5 min additions are flavour. 1 mins and dry are aroma.

Q2: Dunno about the precise hops (either option works, but maybe best to stick to one variety so you can taste what it does), but add a week before bottling.

Q3: It's over when you transfer to secondary, assuming you do.

Q4: You will have a series of identical readings on your hydrometer several days apart.

Q5: 3L in the steeping pot, and sparge with 3L more. Expect some loss from the grain so maybe boil 17L in the kettle to begin with, add the steeped grain-water and add whatever you need to top up to ~25L at the start of the boil. It's not an exact science, and you can make a strong beer weaker at any point up to bottling by adding (boiled and cooled) water. It's harder to make a weak beer stronger, though, so err on the side of lower volumes.

For a recipe like this I give it one week in primary, then transfer to secondary and dry hop. Usually fermentation finishes on day one or two of secondary but I leave it a week before bottling.

Q6: Less bittering hops, lower alpha levels. But it's not something to concern yourself about in your first beer. Brew it, taste it, and decide whether the next one should be more or less bitter.

Q7: It doesn't really matter which sugar you use for priming. DME is expensive for this purpose. Dextrose or table sugar will do.

Q8: Yes.

Q9: It's a good all rounder. Whether it would make the recipe better or not is a matter of taste. Save it for the next one and see what difference it makes.

Enjoy!

Thanks for the really speedy reply. I think I have it under control.

I thought I was all set but need to get some sort of scales to meassure out the hops. Current kitchen scales reads too loose.

Cheers for your help.

Just got back on t'Internet after moving a week and a half ago. But TheBeerNut came to the rescue <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->

Just on the Centennial, I really like them. I've made a pale ale using both Centennial and Cascade, and it's one that goes down well with the guinea pigs <!-- s:) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s:) --> If using both, I tend to use Centennial for bittering and flavour and use Cascade for flavour and aroma. They make a good pair.

Hi,
Made the brew yesterday.

After about 2 hours trying to get my Wort Chiller watertight(it kept leaking, thankfully I tested it before getting started), I got up an going.

Q1.When cooling down the wort, I didnt find that "cloud-like lumps forming which eventually settle to the bottom of the boiler" as per "Extract Brewing: An Illustrated Guide". Is this an issue at this stage?

Q2. OG was meassured while transferring into the Fermenter at 1.066. This seems high. What is the reason for this? Is it the 3.5 Kg of DME?

Q3. I had about 2.5 inches of Hop gunk at the bottom of my 33ltr Boiler at the end of the transfer to the Fermenter. Does the whirlpool(plus 15mins rest) technique really have any effect with this mass of hops?

thanks again
Grog

P.S I realised that DME is very sticky. I think thats worth pointing out.(wish i had read it somewhere! ) <!-- s:) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s:) -->

&amp;quot;Grog1978&amp;quot;:1eqy4azv wrote: Q1.When cooling down the wort, I didnt find that "cloud-like lumps forming which eventually settle to the bottom of the boiler" as per "Extract Brewing: An Illustrated Guide". Is this an issue at this stage?[/quote:1eqy4azv]I wouldn't think so. It's not like you can do anything about it anyway. Don't worry.

&amp;quot;Grog1978&amp;quot;:1eqy4azv wrote: Q2. OG was meassured while transferring into the Fermenter at 1.066. This seems high.[/quote:1eqy4azv]The OG in Barry's recipe is 1.064, so it's pretty much bang on.

&amp;quot;Grog1978&amp;quot;:1eqy4azv wrote: What is the reason for this? Is it the 3.5 Kg of DME? [/quote:1eqy4azv]The DME is virtually all of your fermentable material, so yes: the gravity is dependent on the ratio of DME to water. If 1.066 is too high you can adjust it downwards by adding (boiled, cooled) water. There's a formula for working out the amount here[/url:1eqy4azv].

&amp;quot;Grog1978&amp;quot;:1eqy4azv wrote: Does the whirlpool(plus 15mins rest) technique really have any effect with this mass of hops?[/quote:1eqy4azv]I do wonder about that one myself. I've got it to work once. I find leaf hops easier to deal with and only use a small amount of pellets per brew.