I have often thought that the English don't know how good they have it, when it comes to beer. Mind you I have thought the same thing about the Belgians, the Germans, the Dutch, the Americans... then I realised that it's not them that have it good, it's us that are in the shit situation of having the market almost completely dominated by foreign producers of megaswill.
The trick to a good beer trip is research and for a trip to England that means finding the website for the local CAMRA group. Most groups seem to have a basic but informative website which includes a regularly updated list of real ale pubs.
When I went to the Brewlab course in Sunderland I had a list of pubs to go to. Not that I needed it, mind you. The blokes running the course took care of that end of things quite well.