Ron Pattinson's guide is here[/url:3syi2d16].
His trip over the summer is documented here[/url:3syi2d16], here[/url:3syi2d16], here[/url:3syi2d16] and here[/url:3syi2d16].
And look out for Berliner Weisse: a dying beer style not long for this world. Tastes much better with the green syrup than the red, IMO.