This article was written by American Beer Writer George Lenker aka Beernut and originally appeared in 'The Republican' newspaper, Massachusetts. Keep an eye out for Business & Finance Magazine which will shortly feature his article on Irish Craft Brewing. You can view other articles by George at www.thebeernut.net [site now defunct - Ed, Feb. '08].
Read more: 'Tastier than Sierra Nevada' - Galway Hooker makes an impression Stateside
Craft brewing was dead: to begin with. There is no doubt whatever about that. The register of company assets showed industrial machinery and chemical apparatus far beyond what any craft brewery would reasonably possess. Groogan compiled it and Groogan's name was known and respected wherever large scale brewers met and discussed their trade.
Groogan knew it was dead? Of course he did. How could it be otherwise? Alphonsus Groogan was Chief Operations Officer at Gargle's brewery, and had been even before it became a subsidiary of the Globooze conglomerate. Under his old title of Brewmaster, Groogan had overseen the throwing out of the unreliable old mash tuns and open fermentation tanks; he had supervised the installation of the new, fully-automated, continuous fermentation processes which made Gargle's a world leader in industrially-produced beer. Yes, there was no question but that Groogan knew craft brewing at Gargle's was as dead as the beer in a can of Gargle's Extra Stout.
Galway Hooker is one of Ireland's newest craft beers, having only been on the market since the summer of 2006. It's a style that hasn't really featured on draught in Ireland before, a flavour packed hoppy pale ale.
I recently visited Hooker brewery and had a chat with brewer Aidan Murphy.
They don't go in for half measures at the Boyne Brewhouse. The 30hL Kaspar Shulz brewkit was commissioned last October and occupies just one part of the large facility based in a former car showroom by the M1 just outside Drogheda. When a Beoir delegation visited yesterday things were very much a work in progress, with extra fermenters due to come on-stream shortly, a bottling and canning line going through final checks before commissioning, the copper stills of the Boann Distillery awaiting their turn to be hooked up, and a gin still still in bubblewrap in its crate. When the facility is complete it will incorporate a visitors' centre and restaurant as well as a vast warehouse for maturing the whiskey.
The whole lot is owned by the Cooney family and trades under an independent umbrella company which uses the Irish form of the family name: Na Cuana. Pat Cooney bought the Gleeson bottling company in the 1970s and built it into one of the largest drinks firms in Ireland, producing, importing and distributing wine, soft drinks, cider and liqueurs. There was also a brief foray into beer with Behan's Brew No. 1 lager in the early 2000s. Then in 2012, Gleeson's was acquired by C&C, though the cider and cream liqueur arms have remained with the family and are still produced in separate facilities in Tipperary. Now the company has passed to the second generation of Cooneys, adding spirits and beer to the portfolio and expanding the cider range from budget brand Devils Bit to include a mainstream Bulmers competitor as well as a craft brand, Four Keepers, all of them produced from cider apples grown in the family's own orchard. After the sale of Gleeson's to C&C, there was money available. A distillery and brewery was the end result.
Production in Drogheda is headed by brewer and distiller Áine O'Hora who came to the company via Matilda Bay Brewery in Melbourne. Initial plans are for three core beers: Born in a Day pale ale which is already in pubs; Long Arm, a 100% Saaz Dortmunder-style export lager; and Pagan's Pillar, a traditional Irish red given a German twist with Mandarina Bavaria hops. All are 4.8% ABV and will be sold kegged and in the brewery's distinctive custom-embossed bottles. Specials and seasonals will follow in due course and the state of the art packaging facility behind the brewhouse allows for large-format bottles. Canned beer is also being planned. Though the bottles are pasteurised, a 26-metre-long tunnel pasteuriser allows a light touch, with the beer never going over 60°C. In keeping with a philosophy to use local ingredients where possible, malt is supplied by Loughran Family, topped up by speciality varieties from Weyermann.
Unusually for a start-up brewery, there's almost no room for expansion. The company has opted to go straight for the largest size possible -- capable of producing 35,000 hL of beer per year though the intention is to remain under the limit for the microbrewers' lower rate of duty.
The potential of the brewery and its suite of sister products is enormous. Na Cuana is set to become a major player in Irish beer and cider in the months to come as well as being a major tourist draw for Drogheda.
Many thanks to the Cooney family and Áine for their hospitality during our visit.
This table has been created as an at-a-glance guide to the various beers and ciders produced by companies based in Ireland. A tick denotes that this brand's products qualify as Irish Craft Beer or Cider, that is: produced on the island of Ireland by an Irish company which makes less than 40,000hL per year.
Last update: 26th January 2024
Irish Craft? |
Name |
Type |
Also Known As |
Notes |
12 Acres | Microbrewery | |||
5 Lamps | Microbrewery | Owned by C&C. | ||
59 South | Contract brand | Brewed at Select Batch. | ||
5th Quarter | Contract Brand | Brewed at Hilden. | ||
9 White Deer | Microbrewery | |||
Achill Island | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Ards | Microbrewery | |||
Armagh Brewing | Microbrewery | |||
Armagh Cider | Artisan Cider Maker | Carsons, Maddens, Mollys | ||
Arthurstown | Microbrewery | Dunbrody, King's Bay, Hook | No longer in business. | |
Apple Farm | Artisan Cider Maker | Con's | ||
Ballykilcavan | Microbrewery | |||
Baronscourt | Microbrewery | |||
Barrahooley | Microbrewery | |||
Bartleys | Contract Brand | Brewed at Station Works. | ||
Beaky Dargus | Microbrewery | |||
BeerHut | Microbrewery | |||
Bell's | Microbrewery | The Deer's Head | ||
Benwiskin | Contract Brand | Brewed at Brú. | ||
Beoir Chorca Duibhne | Microbrewery | West Kerry | ||
Big Hand | Contract Brand | No longer in business. Formerly brewed at Trouble. | ||
Black Donkey | Microbrewery | |||
Black Mountain | Microbrewery | |||
Black's | Microbrewery | |||
Blockburger | Contract Brand | Brewed at Brú. | ||
Bo Bristle | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Bofin Brewing | Microbrewery | |||
Boghopper | Microbrewery | Inishowen | No longer in business. | |
Bohemian Craft Ale | Contract brand | Brewed at Five Lamps. | ||
Boundary | Microbrewery | |||
Boyne Valley | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
Brehon | Microbrewery | |||
Brennan's | Contract Brand | Brewed in the UK. | ||
Brew Brothers | Microbrewery | |||
BrewDog Outpost Dublin | Microbrewery | |||
Brewtonic | Contract Brand | Brewed at Rascals. | ||
Bridewell | Microbrewery | |||
Brown Bear | Contract brand | Brewed at Station Works. | ||
Brú | Microbrewery | Carrig | ||
Bullhouse | Microbrewery | |||
Burren | Microbrewery | Curtin's, The Roadside Tavern | ||
C&C | Multinational | Bulmers, Magners, Dowd's Lane, Clonmel 1650, Roundstone, Tipperary Brewing, Pana Cork Lager, Five Lamps | ||
Canvas | Microbrewery | |||
Carlingford | Microbrewery | |||
Carlow | Microbrewery | O'Hara's, Falling Apple, Craigie's, Devil's Bit, Cooney's | 32% owned by Hijos de Rivera. | |
Catch-22 | Contract brand | Brewed at Brú. | ||
Christy's | Contract Brand | Brewed at Brú. | ||
Clanconnel | Contract Brand | McGrath's | Brewed at Whitewater. | |
Clean Slate | Contract Brand | Brewed at Ballykilcavan. | ||
Clonakilty | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Cloughmore | Contract Brand | Brewed at Whitewater. | ||
Cider Mill | Artisan Cider Maker | Cockagee | ||
Clear Sky | Contract Brand | Brewed at Hilden. | ||
Connemara | Contract Brand | Connacht | Brewed at Reel Deel. | |
Connemara Brewery | Microbrewery | |||
Corrib | Microbrewery | Wild Bat | No longer in business. | |
Costello's | Microbrewery | |||
Cotton Ball | Microbrewery | |||
Crafty Bear | Contract Brand | Brewed at Third Barrel. | ||
Crew | Microbrewery | |||
Dan Kelly's | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
Dead Centre | Contract brand | Brewed at St. Mel's. Some small batch beers brewed in the taproom. | ||
Desmond | Contract brand | Brewed in Spain. | ||
Dew Drop | Microbrewery | |||
Diageo | Multinational | Guinness, Smithwick's, Harp, Macardles, Rockshore | ||
Dick Mack's | Microbrewery | |||
Dingle | Contract brand | Tom Crean's | ||
Donegal | Microbrewery | |||
Dooliner | Contract Brand | Brewed at Carlow. | ||
Dopey Dick | Contract Brand | Brewed at Hillstown. | ||
Dot | Contract Brand | Brewed at various Irish microbreweries. | ||
Dovehill | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
Downstream | Contract brand | Brewed at Whitewater. | ||
Drew Fox | Microbrewery | Clever Man | No longer in business. | |
Dublin Brewer | Contract brand | Brewed at Brú. | ||
Dublin City Brewing | Microbrewery | Formerly Dublin Beer Factory | ||
Dundalk Bay | Microbrewery | Brewmaster | ||
Dungarvan | Microbrewery | |||
Eight Degrees | Microbrewery | |||
Elbow Lane | Microbrewery | |||
Evans' | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Falling Apple | Contract Brand | Owned by Carlow Brewing. | ||
Farmageddon | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Fat Walrus | Contract brand | Brewed at Third Barrel. | ||
Finn Valley | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
The Format | Contract brand | Brewed at Third Barrel. | ||
Four Provinces | Microbrewery | |||
Franciscan Well | Microbrewery | Owned by Molson Coors. | ||
Galway Bay | Microbrewery | |||
Galway Hooker | Microbrewery | |||
Glens of Antrim | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Gogarty's | Contract brand | Brewed at Carlow. | ||
Great Island | Contract Brand | Brewed at Select Batch. | ||
Hardy Bucks | Contract Brand | Brewed at C&C. | ||
Hawthorne Tales | Contract Brand | Brewed at Cotton Ball. | ||
Heaney | Microbrewery | |||
Heartland | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Heineken | Multinational | Murphy's, Beamish, Cute Hoor, Kettle Brew, Island's Edge | ||
Hercules | Microbrewery | Yardsman | ||
Highbank | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
Hilden | Microbrewery | |||
Hope | Microbrewery | |||
Hopfully | Microbrewery | |||
Hopkins & Hopkins | Microbrewery | Barrelhead, HopburgH, H&H | ||
Hyland | Contract Brand | Celtic Warrior | Brewed at Third Barrel. | |
Independent | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Inishmacsaint | Microbrewery | Fermanagh Beer Company | ||
Irishtown | Contract Brand | Dublin Blonde | Brewed at Hope. | |
Jack Cody's | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Jack Doyle's | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Jack Smyth's | Microbrewery | |||
JJ's | Microbrewery | |||
Johnny Fall Down | Artisan Cider Maker | Killahora Orchards | ||
Jumping Church | Microbrewery | |||
JW Sweetman | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Kelly's Mountain | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Kerry | Contract Brand | Gnéas | Brewed at Rascals. | |
Kildare | Microbrewery | |||
Killarney | Microbrewery | |||
Kilmegan | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
Kinnegar | Microbrewery | |||
Knockout | Microbrewery | |||
Lacada | Microbrewery | |||
Land & Labour | Contract Brand | Brewed at Galway Bay. | ||
Larkin's | Microbrewery | Curious Society | ||
Last Port | Contract Brand | Brewed at Cotton Ball. | ||
Lecale | Microbrewery | |||
Limerick City | Contract Brand | Brewed at Brú. | ||
Lineman | Microbrewery | |||
Little Island | Contract Brand | Kenmare | Beer brewed at Brú. Cider made at Armagh Cider. | |
Llewellyn's Orchard | Artisan Cider Maker | Double LL | ||
Long Meadow | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
Longueville House | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
Loopland | Contract Brand | Brewed at Knockout | ||
Loudons | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Lough Gill | Microbrewery | Onward | ||
Mac's | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
MacIvor's | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
McGill's | Microbrewery | |||
Mad Culchie | Contract Brand | Brewed at JJ's. | ||
Magic Hill | Microbrewery | |||
Manor | Contract Brand | Mont | Formerly brewed at Boyne Brewhouse. No longer in business. | |
Marks & Spencer | Contract Brand | Irish Stout brewed at Carlow. | ||
MashDown | Microbrewery | |||
McCrackens | Microbrewery | |||
Mescan | Microbrewery | |||
Metalman | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Midlands Beer Collective | Contract Brand | Brewed at Hope. | ||
Monck House | Contract Brand | Brewed at Brú. | ||
Mountain Man | Contract Brand | Brewed at Cotton Ball. | ||
Mourne Mountains | Microbrewery | |||
Mourne Seafood | Contract Brand | Brewed at Whitewater. | ||
Munster | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
N17 | Contract Brand | Brewed at Reel Deel. | ||
Night Cap | Contract Brand | Gallopers | Brewed in England. | |
Norn Iron | Microbrewery | |||
Northbound | Microbrewery | |||
O Brother | Microbrewery | |||
Ó Cléirigh | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
O'Connor | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
O'Shea's | Contract Brand | Brewed at Carlow. | ||
Old Mill | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Orchard Thieves | Contract Brand | Made by Heineken. | ||
Orpens | Contract Brand | Made at C&C. | ||
Otterbank | Microbrewery | |||
Our Brewery | Microbrewery | Formerly Hillstown. | ||
Outer Place | Contract Brand | Brewed at various breweries, in Ireland and abroad. | ||
Pearse Lyons Brewery | Microbrewery | Cumberland Breweries, Station Works, Foxes Rock, Journeyman, Hop Seekers | Owned by Alltech | |
Persistence | Contract Brand | Brewed at JJ's. | ||
Pikeman | Microbrewery | Slieve Bloom Brewery | ||
Pitt Bros | Contract Brand | Beer brewed at Brú, Cider made at Armagh. | ||
Pokertree | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Porterhouse | Microbrewery | |||
Priory | Microbrewery | |||
Rascals | Microbrewery | |||
Raven | Microbrewery | The Old Schoolhouse | No longer in business as a brewery. | |
Red Hand | Microbrewery | The Brewer's House | No longer in business as a brewery. | |
Reel Deel | Microbrewery | |||
Rising Sons | Microbrewery | |||
River Shannon | Contract brand. | Brewed at Ballykilcavan. | ||
Rough Brothers | Microbrewery | |||
Rye River | Microbrewery | McGargle's, Solas, Colgan's, Crafty, Grafters | Part owned by Warsteiner. | |
Sailortown | Contract Brand | Brewed at Carrig. | ||
Samuels | Contract Brand | Brewed at Knockout. | ||
Scott's | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
Select Batch | Microbrewery | BYOB Ventures, Postcard, formerly Dundalk Heritage Brewery and Craftworks | Mainly produces contract beers. Own range sold under the Post Card brand. No longer in business. | |
Sesh | Contract Brand | Brewed at Hope. | ||
Sheelin | Microbrewery | |||
Sheridan's | Microbrewery | Walsh's | No longer in business as a brewery. | |
Soulwater | Contract Brand | Brewed at JJ's. | ||
Spiddal River | Contract Brand | Bogman | Brewed at Trouble | |
St. Mel's | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Stonewell | Artisan Cider Maker | Finnbarra | ||
Sullivan's | Contract Brand | Brewed at Dundalk Bay. Some small batch beers brewed in the taproom. | ||
Taylored Ales | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Tempted | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
Third Barrel | Microbrewery | Third Circle, Stone Barrel | ||
Thompsons | Microbrewery | Owned by Cotton Ball. | ||
Toby's | Artisan Cider Maker | |||
Torc | Microbrewery | |||
Treaty City | Microbrewery | Conradh | ||
Trouble | Microbrewery | |||
Twisted Kettle | Microbrewery | |||
Two Sides | Contract brand | Brewed at Third Barrel. | ||
Two Sisters | Contract Brand | Brigid's Ale | Brewed at Trouble. | |
UCC Pilot | Microbrewery | |||
Urban | Microbrewery | Co-owned by Carlow Brewing. | ||
Walled City | Microbrewery | |||
West Cork | Microbrewery | |||
West Mayo | Microbrewery | No longer in business. | ||
Western Herd | Microbrewery | |||
Wexford 1798 | Contract brand | Brewed in the Netherlands. | ||
Whiplash | Microbrewery | |||
White Hag | Microbrewery | |||
Whitefield | Microbrewery | White Gypsy | ||
Whitewater | Microbrewery | 25% owned by C&C. | ||
Wicklow | Microbrewery | |||
Wicklow Wolf | Microbrewery | |||
Wide Street | Microbrewery | |||
Wood Key | Contract brand | Brewed at Third Barrel. No longer in business. | ||
YellowBelly | Contract brand | Brewed at Dundalk Bay. |